Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along

elevation hoodie sew-along: supplies

For May: a sew-along with the Elevation Hoodie from New Horizons Designs!
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016

Pattern Testing
What you can expect: a detailed sew-along suitable for beginners or advanced stitchers. For those new (or new-ish) to sewing with knit fabrics, this is an especially-appropriate project. We’re working with midweight knits with good recovery. They can be sewn on a lock-stitch machine (read: a “regular sewing machine”) – no serger required!

The pattern currently comes in two versions: a children’s version (size 6/12mos. to 16), as well as a women’s version (bust 31″ to 51 1/2″). The pattern will also soon debut a men’s pattern!

And – great news! – Nature’s Fabrics have once again graced us with their partnership. They are offering a 10% off coupon code to participants in the sew-along. I will warn you though; their fabrics are addicting. I highly recommend the bamboo stretch fleece, or the bamboo stretch terry (the latter is shown in the supply list below). All you need to do to get your coupon code is to email me and sign up for the sew-along!

Ready?

"I'm Ready." Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016

From top left, clockwise: sand, charcoal, and white fabrics (a bamboo stretch french terry), pattern (printed copy-shop size), interfacing (for pcoket welts), and thread (in all fabric colors)

Pattern:
When I come across pdf patterns that are designed for 8 1/2″ by 11″ sheets, I “tape” them together in Photoshop, then send them to the copy center. However, Terra is wonderful as you can email her if you’d like a copy-shop size to print your pattern.  I then store the pattern in a labeled roll, using it to trace the size(s) I need. You can elect to print out your directions if you like, but this sew-along will detail construction.

Fabric:
First, if you aren’t familiar with sewing with knits, or if you have had bad experiences, take some time to acquaint yourself. I recommend taking a deep breath, getting a cup of tea, and taking a couple minutes to read through my new-to-knits post, as well as – if you like – my other knit tutorials. Sewing with knit fabrics is not rocket science. But there are a few things to keep in mind – and trust me, the more experienced you get, the more you’ll love working with these wonderful fabrics!

The pattern recommends fabrics with 35% stretch. This means the knit has to stretch 35% across the grain (from selvedge to selvedge). This is simple to determine: grip two points on the crossgrain of the fabric five inches apart, and stretch. The fabric will need to stretch to at least six and three-quarter inches comfortably.

Can you make the hoodie with less stretch? Yes. But the more stretch and recovery (the alacrity with which the fabric springs back after being strained), the better!

How much fabric to buy? Simply check the pattern’s yardage chart (here is the women’s; here is the children’s). On the back of the pattern,  you will find the yardage of 55″ wide knit fabric you need to purchase for your size. Measure your intended client at the bust/chest, waist, and hip to determine their size. If they are between sizes, use the largest size measurement for yardage.

In my case, I liked to order extra fabric – especially for the hood/top of the hoodie, and the base. That would leave me with the most colorblocking options.

Remember – Nature’s Fabrics is hosting a coupon code for students of this sew-along – if you want to order from them, email me!

Interfacing:
You can use either a knit, woven, or nonwoven interfacing. For all my interfacings, I use Pat Erny’s fabulous products at Fashion Sewing Supply. You don’t need a stretch knit for these interfacings because the bits we are interfacing – the pocket welts and the eyelet locations – don’t need to stretch:
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016

Thread:
I use a cotton-wrapped poly for most my apparel. I tend to favor Mettler, but I also buy whatever is available to me when I’m in a pinch. Bargain-basement or old thread (read: thrift store)  is a no-no, but Coats & Clark is fine. I will be simply cutting my seams close to stitching – no serging required. But if you want to serge, make sure to select the right color cones.

And – because I’m a huge sewing-nerd – I will be threading the machine such that the threads always match the colorblocking! This makes for a very gorgeous inner finish:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016Needles:
The correct needle depends on the fabric you are using. In general, a jersey or ballpoint needle is best for natural-based stretch fabrics (wool, cotton, linen, etc), while a stretch needle will work well for synthetic stretch fabrics.

Et Cetera:
Decide whether you’re going to use eyelets, grommets, or thread-eyelets for the drawstring. And consider adding a tag or patch to the neckline, for a custom touch:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016
And there you have it! A simple spring sew-along! This hoodie is going to be gorgeous, and get lots of compliments. In fact, I’m making yet another, for a girlfriend, the end of this month!

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to email me, or comment here. You may also want to join the New Horizons pattern group on Facebook! There is a great little community there, sewing up these fabulous patterns.

See you May 1st!

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016
Pattern Testing

 

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