Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along

elevation hoodie sew-along: constructing the body & pockets

Weather here this time of year is gorgeous. That said, it’s hard to find a Pacific Northwest season that isn’t hoodie-friendly. Even in the hottest of our August days, a lightweight hoodie is perfect for those late summer nights. I am adoring my Nature’s Fabrics bamboo french terry (NAYY – just love their stuff!). It is the perfect weight – midweight, heavier than a heavy t-shirt but not hoodie weight. I am reminded that delicious bespoke benefits from high-quality fabrics!
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along
So – time to get stitching!

Bling! Last time around we cut and marked our fabric: today, we get to do some sewing! Lots of sewing. Lots of pictures! Let’s go!

First, I select my stitch. I usually  use a narrow zig-zag for sewing knits – the zig zag stitch is a “10” on my Pfaff; I use a 0.5mm width and 3.0mm length:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets
So: according to our construction order in the pattern, we’re putting together our front chevron patterns. I like to sew up the colorblocking for the front, sleeves, and back in succession, because I like to thread the machine such that the threads match the fabrics, from the inside. This is just something I do to make the garment extra-special! You can see the result here – I stitched using my narrow zig zag , then stitched 1/8″ from the first stitching line, and then trimmed:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets
Gorgeous, no?

As you can see, I sew with the “convex” chevron piece against the machine, and the “concave” piece facing up:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

I slow down at the center piece, sewing right to that thread-marked center; I have removed the thread, and clipped the seam allowance right to the stitching line:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

You can experiment with your fabric – I gave mine a light steam-press from the wrong-side:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

I did the same for my back and sleeve pieces, while my colors are threaded properly.

Next up? Our lovely welt pockets! I traced the little pocket “window” on the interfaced side of my pocket pieces:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets
Shown below: my thread-marked body (the yellow thread, affixed with tape when I thread-marked), and the little dot about 3/8″ from the welt window’s edge – these two dots need to be lined up and the pieces pinned right-sides together, before stitching.

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

A couple pins are all you need. If you are working with a very stretchy knit, you may want to either stabilize (with interfacing) around the “window” section of the garment’s body – or put a washaway stabilizer underneath the whole work, before you sew.

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

In my case, the bamboo french terry is stable enough I didn’t need to stabilize the garment body before stitching. I stitched exactly along the window marked lines:
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

And then cut a slit, from dot-to-dot, right in the center of the window (shown below). Then, using very sharp scissors, cut from the dots to the very corner, making sure not to cut the stitching lines.

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

Next – and I love this part! – turn the pocket piece into the interior of the shirt, gently finger-pressing and then steaming the window flat:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

OMG this is going to look so good!

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

Now: fold the welt into the gap left by the windowpane, and secure the free short edges of the welt with pins:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

These short free edges will be stitched to the little triangle pieces we cut when we slashed the welt open:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

I like to use a zipper foot to stitch right on that edge. Make sure to really secure this stitch. Some people like to backtack; I like to use a very small stitch, like 0.5mm length, so I don’t have to backtack and risk having ripples or bumps:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

Here’s the underside of the welt edge – gorgeous!
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

At this point you can stitch around the welt opening (the pattern reads,“Turn the bodice right side up and top stitch around the pocket opening through all layers.”), but I tend to avoid topstitching as much as possible on finer garments. Alternatively, to secure that welt, you can carefully stitch in the ditch the length of the pocket welt, on the inner long edge.

Next, we will be pinning our free pocket edges, which meet in the center of the garment, and sewing. I pressed mine open:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets
And here is the pocket, all flat and secure – waiting to be stitched. It looks gorgeous! Note the bamboo likes to curl a bit. That’s just how it rolls. *snicker!*
Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

Finishing up, then trimming the pocket seams:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets

Holy cow! We have our welt pocket all finished! And boy does it look good!

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: May 2016
So – we’ll be back in a few days to construct our hood! I am going to be using a thread-eyelet treatment – although of course standard, metal eyelets can also be used. We are about halfway through our hoodie already!

Dancing!
See you in a couple days! #w00t!

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