Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along

elevation hoodie sew-along: constructing the hood & sleeves

It’s that time again! Y’all ready to bust out some sweet hoodie action? Our penultimate hoodie-sewing post!
Elevation Hoodie Sew-AlongTime to get stitching! #awesomesauce

Jem
In our last entry we colorblocked and created our pockets: today, we’re putting our hood together, and installing our sleeves! For those of you using the women’s pattern, we are on page 13.

First, let’s talk a little about grommets.

The point of the grommet in a hood casing is to keep the drawstring hole strong enough for wear. Now, I never use drawstrings much – they are more a decorative element than anything else. And exploring grommets as a design motif is so great! For instance: check out the star-shaped version on the Fabulous Flying Fox hat I made a few months ago:

The Fabulous Flying Fox!

The Fabulous Flying Fox!

OMG!

So – grommets are easily available at sewing supplies online. The packages generally come with the equipment to install them, as well as instructions; and there are tons of tutorials online as well.

But for the sake of this sew-along, I thought I’d show you how to create a thread-grommet. This way, if you don’t have grommets on hand that you like, you can still put together something that looks good and functions well:

Hand-Knit I-Cord, Buttonhole Drawstring

Gorgeous? Oh heck yes!

So first: you will want to interface a small patch on the wrong-side of the fabric, for strength. In general, I do this for any grommet or set-in element like a snap.

Next, I select my stitch. Now, many machines have a specialty stitch (and sometimes accompanying plate) that can be used as an eyelet. For one example see below, stitch 88:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves
However, since I am showcasing methods for any zig-zag machine I’ll be forgoing the specialty, and using a zig-zag stitch instead. (You can certainly make a thread-grommet with straight stitches, but zig-zag is my personal favorite.) I used, in this case, a 2.0mm width and 1.0mm length:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves

Next, I use a piece of stabilizer both underneath, and on top of the buttonhole location. I use Sulky’s Sticky Fabri-Solvy, which is my secret weapon for everything. Seriously. I am married to it. I let it raise my kids. That sort of thing. I simply draw a small circle (about 1/4″) lightly on the stabilizer, affix it to the right side of the fabric, and sandwich the fabric with another piece of stabilizer underneath. Then, I carefully stitch around twice. I then gently tug the right-side stabilizer off the work…

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves

… and then pull the thread-tails to the wrong side and knot them:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves
Next, it’s time to drive an awl through the two holes in the hood pieces, because you won’t want to be poking around in there after the garment is finished:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves

Now we’re ready to join our hood pieces (switch back to your construction stitch of 0.5mm width and 3.0mm length), then form our hood casing!

Pin the casing by either folding under 1/4″ then 1″ (as in the pattern directions), or do as I do and simply fold the whole business at 1 1/4″ and sew the raw edge from the wrong side with a mock-overlock stitch. This is a great time to really use a lot of pins, as the raw edge of the hood is shorter than the body of the hood, so you will be stretching while you sew:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves
OK I know that’s not “a lot of pins” – but for me, it is!

Now, keep in mind if you use a metal grommet, you will want to be careful when stitching this seam lest your needle strike a metal grommet with a heart-shattering BAM! and break the needle! #AskMeHowIKnowThis Just sew slowly, and if you’ve cut and pinned properly, your hood casing will not interfere with your drawstring hole.

Next, we pin the hood to the neckline (as per page 14-15 in the women’s pattern version), stitch, stitch again 1/8″ away (optional) – and trim. Again – I just love the way the seam finishes look with a simple zig-zagged and trimmed finish:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Body & Pockets
Shown here: the inside of the hood face. As you can see, I sewed such that the mock-serge stitch fully enclosed the raw edge – which looks gorgeous, and eliminates fussing with the 1/4″ fold.

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves

Now, it’s time to pin those sleeves to the body! Almost done for the day!

I remember the first time I graduated from making woven tops like blouses, to sewing with knits. You only have to put in a pin or two (I usually pin so that I’ll be stitching with the shirt body facing up, and the sleeve facing the machine), and the whole thing comes together beautifully, due to the stretch in the fabrics! Amazing!

The secret to lining up all those colorblocked bits, is to drive in your pin precisely at the colorblocked stitching line, and drive it through the other piece (whether body or sleeve) right on the stitching line. Sew slowly, 

Shown below: I am rounding the top of the shoulder, sleeve-side up. Don’t ask me why the sleeve is on top; usually as I say, I sew the other way. Either way, knit fabrics make this part rather easy:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves

After affixing the shoulder seam and stitching another line of stitching at 1/8″ and trimming (optional) – simply pin as per above, and sew up the side seam!

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Cuffs, Band, & Finishing

Ahhhh… you just gotta love the simplicity of a knit top!

Let’s check out that shoulder seam! Pretty good, no?

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Constructing The Hood & Sleeves

So there we are! We’re only a drawstring, cuffs, and bottom band away from completion! I hope you are enjoying your hoodie as much as I’m enjoying mine! And – see you in a few days!

Radical!

 

 

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