Tremors (1990)

elevation hoodie sew-along: cuffs, band, & finishing

Today we finish our hoodie! VICTORY!

Tremors (1990)

I can’t get enough of this hoodie. The purple-hued hoodie pictured in some of the photos below, is the fourth I’ve made in a very short time. And I have another on the table!
Elevation Hoodie Sew-AlongTime to get stitching! #LikeABoss

In our last entry we put our hood together, installed our sleeves, and sewed up our side seams! Today we’re putting together our cuffs, bottom band, and drawstring.

Let’s start with the band first.

A banded knit top almost always has a long, double-folded band at the bottom. Usually this band is cut in a long strip, with a seam at center back. The Elevation hoodie’s band is sewn in two pieces, with seams at the side. This is a handy way to save yardage a bit.

Remember wayyyy back when I discussed cutting the garment pieces? I suggested if you don’t have ribbing with a good stretch and recovery you may want to cut a little extra width into your band. You will be glad you did. It is much easier to cut off some width, than to re-cut or add more! All of my Elevation hoodies have been self-bound, with the (glorious) Nature’s Fabrics bamboo stretch terry I’ve been in love with, so I added a couple inches to the band width.

I like to cut my band, sew the seams, press them open, and then mark the band in four places (sides, center front, and center back). The shirt is similarly marked in the center back and center front. I then pin the band accordingly and sew with my narrow zig-zag, shirt-side against the needle plate, with my IDT (walking foot) raised):

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Cuffs, Band, & Finishing

Once I am satisfied the band looks good, I sew another row of zig-zag 1/8″ from the first seam, in the seam allowance, and trim.

Done!

So here are two cuff options for the Elevation hoodie – a straight cuff (in the children’s pattern), and either a straight cuff or a thumbhole cuff (in the womens’ pattern). Thumbhole cuffs are glorious and I’ve been messing with them since forever!

Since a straight cuff is sewn exactly as the band above, I am going to show you my thumbhole cuff – in my women’s hoodie, shown below in purple.

Remember our cutting layout, when I suggested that for a thumbhole cuff you add 3/8″ for a total seam allowance of 3/4″? This isn’t entirely necessary, but I find it makes for a more comfortable experience when sewing the thumbhole cuff.

Elevation Hoodie: Layout
As illustrated on page 18 of the women’s hoodie instructions, sew in between the notches, backstitching firmly at raw edge and at notch. These thumbholes get a lot of wear and tear so you want sturdy seams. You will end up with two open thumbholes, and three sections of closed seam:

New Horizons Elevation Hoodie, page 18

Then carefully press the seam open (a sleeve board works wonders for this)

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Cuffs, Band, & Finishing

Now, fold the thumbholes in half, and sew seam allowances together along the thumbhole gaps, keeping the other seam allowance and the bulk of the cuff away. I like to use a zipper foot for this – and below, you can see why I like a larger seam allowance:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Cuffs, Band, & Finishing

Now, flip the cuff to expose the remaining two seam allowances. Pin, and sew. The really cool part is, you can sew past the gaps and it will still work out. Just remember to sew firmly:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Cuffs, Band, & Finishing

 

Here’s a finished cuff, about to be turned. Up top in the photo is the cuff edge:

Elevation Hoodie Sew-Along: Cuffs, Band, & Finishing

Turn, pin, and sew to the sleeve as per a straight cuff! Awesome-possum!

And finally – our drawstring!

I have found it is worth the time to really straighten the grain before cutting the drawstring – cutting the short width along the grain. I cut a 1 1/2″ strip the entire 50″ – 60″ of the fabric, then sew with a 3/8″ seam, a tighter zig zag (say 0.5mm by 2.0mm, but this will depend on your fabric). I then trim to 1/8″, and carefully turn the drawstring right-side out. I then stretch the drawstring out, pin it to my ironing board, and steam the heck out of it. This sets the drawstring and helps it look gorgeous! Once it has cooled down, I thread it through the hood, cut to length, and knot the ends.

I’ve been enjoying making a fully-colorblocked hoodie – that is, the drawstring matches the top half the hoodie, and the welt pockets match the bottom half – but this pattern is so obviously meant for all kinds of colorblocking goodness!

Pattern Testing

So.

Hey.

You have just finished a hoodie! Congratulations. When you get compliments, say, “Thanks. I made this!” and watch people’s jaws drop!

I hope you enjoyed sewing the Elevation, as much as I enjoyed sewing my versions. You are awesome! And – thanks Terra, from New Horizons Designs!

Goats!

 

 

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