Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim

Babies, my dem jeans sew-a-long is underway.  Posted here:

yellow Japanese selvedge denim with a monster-tentacle back pocket detail and articulated knees!

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
Brass findings: rivets and buttons. Four-button button-fly. Crossgrain and steam-shaped waistband (i.e. the most comfortable, long-lasting, and great-looking jean waistband you’ll ever wear!).

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
The interior of my button fly. You won’t find a better-looking button fly. I would invite you to look at the interior of your own designer jeans, but it might make you sad.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
My favorite bit: while designing these jeans I’d been watching kaiju films, so I had this sort of seaweed-tentacle motif banging around in my brain. By the way, denim pocket topstitching is really soothing.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
Uber-closeup of the back yoke at side seam, finished with triple-stitch. The waistband is finished by “stitching in the ditch” with an invisible-stitch result, as we see here.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
OK, maybe THIS is my favorite bit? Articulated knees as formed by small darts in the inseam and outseam of the front leg. If you haven’t worn jeans with this detail, you will be amazed how much more comfortable they are!

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
And the selvedge outseam – Japanese selvedge denim, and people pay about $200 to $800 for a pair of jeans made with this detail.

Kai-Jeans! Selvedge Denim
I have come to realize that sewing is as much about design as it is technical savvy. One can master technical sewing skills far faster than develop a design sense and acumen. If you’re reading here, know that for most of us, it takes time, patience, blood, sweat, and tears to develop a design voice. Don’t let the amount of work, time, and yes – failures (or misfires) deter you from stepping on the path. It is a very special feeling to be able to create something – in my case, one-of-a-kind custom garments – that no one else has made, and that stands the test of time.

Happy stitching, lovelies!

lovely in kelly green

I totally made this today (the garment, not the child; the latter I am only fortunate enough to have incubated and birthed):

Tennis Court Beauty

Sewing this up was a wonderful, wonderful way to start my day: first, a quick morning trip (By myself! Listening to loud music! Grabbing a croissant and a [decaf] espresso!) for sewing supplies. I was forced into Walmart for the poison-green thread for my sewing machine and serger; there’s no other place within thirty or fifty miles to find it. Still, I got home right-quick and because the kids slept in (and when they got up, fed and dressed themselves) I was able to complete the garment.

Phoenix In The Glen

Lovely Neckline; Lovely Neck

It’s from a Japanese pattern book and originally had a button-placket in the front. But rather than sew nine tiny buttonholes (puke!) I elected to do a hand-pricked lapped side-zipper.  Phoenix slides the tunic on and somehow that whole business reminded me of the early scene in The Virgin Spring, a linen lovely my daughter was so happy to wear.


Installing Zipper

Check out that tiny, TINY little yellow-green dot at the lower mid-right of the above photo. The prick-stitch is amazing because it is subtle and lovely but so very strong! Plus I get to say “prick”! A lot! I only wish it was called the cock-stitch.

You can view many details and construction notes at my Flickr tagset.

“It’s the pleats.”