Jalie 972 Overalls (line drawing), Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

jalie overalls sew-along

Jalie 972 Overalls (line drawing), Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom
Jalie 972 Overalls (photo), Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

jalie 972 - overalls

Chest: 21 1/4″ – 65″
Waist: 20 1/8″ – 60 5/8″
Hip: 21 5/8″ – 66 1/2″
Size table

Loose-fitting overalls/dungarees including adjustable straps and oversize fit.

Jalie’s patterns are fantastic – they come in one of the largest size ranges I’ve ever seen! The instructions come in English, French, and Spanish. I love Jalie’s drafting, the directions, and the welcoming culture in their Facebook group.

This is a retro/reproduce – Jalie scanned in the pattern and photo from back in the day (yes, they’ve been around a long while!). The pattern is therefore not available in layers, but it is available in print-at-home, AO, and 36″ formats!

Let’s get moving! Overalls are about as tricky as jeans – just a few more steps. The Jalie instructions are so gorgeous because you can really “see ahead” which I always appreciate.

Remember: I will be sewing live, and I will embed and upload the entire video playlist here as I go.

Materials needed:

The Jalie 972 overall pattern (here).
Non-stretch bottomweight
Jean buttons
Overall clips & sliders

Interfacing*
All-purpose thread
Topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); also double* and topstitch needles*
Tracing medium & tracing wheel
Paper & tape
Awl*
Buttonhole chisel*

* Optional; watch the first video for more information

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

For fabric, I’m using a fantastic corduroy!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to make the jeans if you are only sewing with one machine; however, I highly recommend you borrow and set up a second machine for topstitching.

This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Tuesday June 1st, 2021, hosted on my Twitch channel; they are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

TUE 1: cutting & marking
WED 2: bib and back/back pockets
THU 3: front & front pockets
FRI 4: finishing
SAT 5: finishing, pt two; hardware

I’m excited to create alongside you!

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jeans sew-along

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

I am honored to be hosting a livestream sew-along for the Rad Pattern Kelly Jean – a rigid jean pattern in a wonderful adult size range!

The name is not a coincidence! Stephanie of Rad Patterns says, “They’re called the Kelly Jeans, named for my amazingly talented friend @bespokehogaboom who’s probably one of the most amazing jeans sewists on the planet”!

Ha ha I’m not crying, you’re crying!

Rad Patterns Kelly Jeans Sew-Along Livestream, Kelly Hogaboom / Bespoke Hogaboom

rad patterns kelly jean

Waist: 22 1/2″ – 73″
Hip: 32 1/2″ – 83″

Rigid (non-stretch) jean in several lengths. Curved waistband, zip fly, slouchy/boyfriend fit, low pockets.

My best jean-making tip: slow down! Read the directions, proceed carefully, and don’t be afraid to seam-rip and adjust for fit!

Let’s get moving! Jeans are tricky enough I thought I’d do a quick introduction video – covering our materials but also a bit of muslin prep. You can also skip ahead and read on before watching the video (in fact, I recommend reading this whole post first before watching anything). If you see anything goofy or confusing – just go ahead and leave a comment and I will attend to it directly!

Remember: I will be sewing live, and I will embed and upload the entire video playlist here as I go:

Here are the materials you need!

The Kelly Jean pattern (here).
Non-stretch denim or equivalent (sewing yardages are on page two of the pattern)
Interfacing
All-purpose thread & topstitching thread*
Needles: denim (or heavy, sharp, universal); also double* and topstitch needles*
Tracing medium & tracing wheel
Paper & tape
Awl*
Buttonhole chisel*

* Optional; watch the first video for more information

– as well as your tuned-up sewing machine and manual, cutting equipment, pins, scissors, iron and ironing board!

For fabric, I’m using a fantastic canvas from The Hand and Eye Sewing Supply – a fairly new fabric shop that has some absolutely fantastic bottomweights!

I’ll be sewing on three machines: my domestic Pfaff, a White serger (for seam finishing), and my Pfaff 130 (for topstitching). If you don’t have three machines never fear – I will be going over how to make the jeans if you are only sewing with one machine; however, I highly recommend you borrow and set up a second machine for topstitching.

Our schedule! This sew-along begins 5 PM Pacific on Saturday the 20th, hosted simultaneously on my Bespoke Hogaboom Facebook page and my Twitch channel; they are then uploaded to my Vimeo channel if you miss out! And all dates are hosted on my Calendar (here’s a live link you can add to your own).

If you have questions about jean construction – please ask here in the blog post. If you have questions about your specific jean muslin and fitting – ask in the Rad Patterns Facebook group!

SAT 20: cutting & marking
TUE 23: interfacing, back and front pockets
WED 24: back yoke, inseams, outseams
THU 25: zip fly, waistband
FRI 26: belt carriers, button & buttonhole, & grommets

And finally! You have the opportunity to enter the giveaway below! Please read carefully to enter. If you like, you can subscribe to my sewing emails (about one per month).

You do not have to subscribe to my emails for the giveaway!

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Kelly Hogaboom, jeans livestream

seams legit: jeans

Kelly Hogaboom, jeans livestream

Update: this sew-along is finished, and all videos are linked at the bottom of the post!

Well, we did it.

We hosted twelve months of sewing goodness!

I have enjoyed, so very much, designing these classes and livestreaming with you all.

This month, we made a pair of jeans! In my videos (four in total) I will start with a bit of fitting advice – and a bit of conversation about all the different parts of the jeans.

I’m using a pattern I drafted myself, for a friend – however, all jeans should have some version of the following pieces – design features you should become acquainted with. These are explained in my first video.

You can sign up for these livestream videos on Facebook, if you want a reminder and updates!

A reminder that for all sew-alongs in my Seams Legit series you need:

1. a machine with its manual; the machine needs to be tuned-up and sewing a balanced zig-zag

2. the supplies listed in the pattern, as well as a thorough read-through of the pattern you use

This project will take place in installments (edit: these are linked at the bottom of this post).

So here’s what you need to do:

1. read through this post, & purchase your pattern & supplies

2. pre-treat your fabrics

3. sew with us live in December (on my FB page or my Twitch stream)!

Update: here are all four videos:

[ video 1: cutting and marking ] [ video 2: pockets, front and back ] [ video 3: front fly & side seams ] [ video 4: waistband, carriers, and finishing ]

 

SUPPLIES:

Rotary cutter and mat; marking tools & tracing medium

Sewing machine with balanced zig zag; sewing machine manual

To make jeans you will need:

your pattern

your denim, pocket fabric & – optional – extra fabric for a muslin

construction thread & topstitching thread

zipper and button

sewing machine needles (jeans, sharp, or universal; topstitching if you use a heavy thread)

Optional materials

sticky, washaway stabilizer (for buttonhole)

fusible web (for belt carriers)

awl (for button installation)

Happy new year, peeps! See you on the flip side. 

2019 "Seams Legit" calendar

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

So, a good jean or trouser pocket – especially a wide or deep one – may stretch out over time. This issue is compounded even more if the pocket is cut on a curve (as so many are) and if it’s made from a stretch fabric.

So in that light, for a few years now I generally use a stay to stabilize my front pockets. This is especially important for a work garment or something that may get really rugged use. I learned this technique from Kenneth D. King, although I can’t remember precisely in what class or tutorial.

This technique uses a very cool aspect of a plain weave cotton – the ability to steam-press a curve into a strip tore on the cross-grain. I am using a light black cotton lawn, but any light plain weave will work.

This step takes place immediately after you’ve sewn the pocket bag to the shell fabric (which I’ll call denim), and before you do any trimming, grading, understitching et cetera.

So first, tear a strip that is about 2″ longer than the pocket seam you will be reinforcing. I tear at about 5/8″ wide; anything between 1/2″ and 1″ will do:

tutorial: stayed jean pockets
Next, take this strip to the ironing board along with your jean. Using the curve of the seam, steam press the strip by really yanking and curving and pressing. It works beautifully! You don’t need the curve to be perfect, just close to the pocket curve:

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Now, pin the stay to the garment. It can be confusing at first to figure where this stay goes: but it is pinned to the wrong side of the jean fabric:


tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Next, flip the work and stitch from the pocket bag side, right on top of the previous seam. Don’t worry if you’re not as accurate as I am. It’s better to stitch a bit into the seam allowance, than into the body of the jean. Stitch slowly and remove pins before you get to them.

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Here is the underside of the work. You can see the theory of the stay: the curved stitching line will be stitched over ONE thread in the weft direction! This makes for an incredibly stable curve. Pretty cool, no?

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Now, it’s time to notch or pink that seam allowance, to allow for a smooth curve.

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Flipping to the right-side of the garment, this is where you might typically understitch all layers towards the inside of the garment:

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Instead though, since I will be topstitching that pocket edge from the topside, I steam-press that pocket edge carefully, rolling about 1/16″ of denim to the backside. *chef’s kiss!*

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Finally – topstitch that pocket curve from the public side, with either one or two (or three!) rows:

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

Perfection. You’ve got a pocket that won’t blow out, sag or droop!

tutorial: stayed jean pockets

vado-jeans-sew-along-badge

vado jeans sew-along: pattern & materials prep; cutting & marking

 

vado-jeans-sew-along-badge

Having gathered our supplies, today we are earnestly getting started on our stretch jeans sew-along! Want to join us? Email me and I’ll set you up!

Before we start, I can tell you a little about my sew-alongs. They are relatively detailed, and talk quite a bit about construction theory and tailoring values. They aren’t especially “cookie-cutter” sew-alongs and you may find the posts a bit longer than typical offerings. That said, I have had many satisfied “customers” (I don’t charge for these, or use ads or affiliate links) tell me they learned so much from these posts. Comments like this keep me motivated to be as detailed as possible!

Let’s get started!

Awesome!

Super-important-please-read-this-before-proceeding!!

Hold Up